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Smoked and dried fish, explained
Stockfish, panla, shawa, smoked catfish, crayfish: the dried fish aisle can be confusing if you didn't grow up with it, and even if you did, the names change from Lagos to Accra to Kingston. Here is what each one is, how hard it is, how to get it ready, and which soup it belongs in. From our African and Black-owned store in Chicago.
Table of Contents
Why West Africa smokes and dries fish
Before fridges, smoke and sun were how coastal and river towns kept their catch. They still are. The UN's Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) notes that smoking is one of the main ways fish is preserved and sold across West Africa, and that women do most of the smoking and processing.1,2,4 Smoked and dried fish travels well, lasts for months and carries a deep taste that one small piece spreads through a whole pot of soup.
Stockfish is the odd one out. It is cod from Norway, dried hard in the cold open air with no salt and no smoke. Nigeria has bought it from Norway for well over a century, and it became so much a part of southeastern Nigerian cooking that it has its own Igbo name, okporoko, said to come from the sound the hard fish makes in the pot.3
What's in it
Stockfish is mostly protein. Seafood from Norway says up to 78.5% of stockfish is protein,5 and Norway's official food table lists dried stockfish at about 327 calories per 100 g.6 It has no added salt. Smoked and dried fish like shawa can be salty, so taste the pot before you add salt or seasoning cubes.
The fish chart: which is which
| Fish | What it is | How hard / prep | Best in |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stockfish (okporoko) | Cod, air-dried hard, no salt | Very hard. Soak overnight or boil 30 to 60 min | Egusi, ogbono, okro, banga, pepper soup |
| Panla (eja panla) | Hake, dried | Medium. Soak 20 to 30 min in hot water | Efo riro, ewedu stew, ila asepo |
| Shawa (dried herring) | Small herring, smoked or dried | Soft. Rinse in warm salted water | Stews, jollof, soups, eaten with garri |
| Ground shawa | Herring, dried and milled | Ready. Stir straight in | Any soup or sauce, like crayfish |
| Smoked fish (catfish, mackerel, abo) | Hot-smoked over wood | Soft to medium. Rinse, remove bones | Okra soup, palm nut soup, light soup |
| Crayfish | Small shrimp-like crustacean, dried | Ready. Grind or use whole | Almost every Nigerian soup |
Shop smoked and dried fish
How to prepare each one
Stockfish bits and heads
- Put the pieces in a bowl and cover with very hot water.
- Soak overnight for heads and big pieces, a few hours for bits.
- Rinse, then boil 20 to 30 minutes until soft, before adding to the soup with your meat.
Panla (dried hake)
- Soak 20 to 30 minutes in hot water with a pinch of salt.
- Break into pieces and pull out the big bones.
- Add in the last 10 to 15 minutes so it doesn't fall apart.
Shawa (dried herring) and smoked fish
- Rinse in warm salted water to remove dust and sand.
- Remove the head, spine and bones if you like.
- Add near the end of cooking. Smoked fish is already cooked and only needs to warm through.
Ground herring and crayfish
- No soaking. Shake out any grit.
- Stir 1 to 3 tablespoons into the soup after the base is cooked.
- Simmer 5 minutes so the taste spreads.
Which fish for which soup
- Egusi soup: stockfish, smoked fish and ground crayfish together. See our egusi soup recipe.
- Ogbono (draw) soup: stockfish and smoked catfish. See our ogbono soup guide.
- Efo riro and ewedu: panla and shawa, with crayfish.
- Okra, palm nut and light soup: smoked fish, herring or abo.
- Pepper soup: stockfish heads or panla for a lighter broth.
How to store dried fish
If dried fish smells sour, shows mould or feels wet and soft, throw it out.
Dried fish FAQ
What is the difference between stockfish and dried fish?
Stockfish is cod that is air-dried until rock hard, with no salt or smoke. "Dried fish" in African shops usually means smoked fish such as catfish or herring, which is softer and has a smoky taste.
How long do I soak stockfish?
Bits and small pieces: soak in hot water for a few hours or overnight. Big heads and whole pieces: soak overnight, then boil until a fork goes in. Change the water once if the smell is strong.
Does dried fish need to go in the fridge?
Dry, unopened fish keeps in a cool, dry cupboard. Once opened, keep it in an airtight bag or jar. In a warm, humid kitchen, the fridge or freezer keeps it longer.
Is ground herring the same as crayfish?
No. Both are dried and ground and both add a deep seafood taste, but herring is a fish and crayfish is a crustacean. Many cooks use both in the same pot.
Can I buy smoked fish near me in Chicago?
Yes. Our store in Chicago carries stockfish, panla, shawa and crayfish, and we ship them across the US.
Sources
- FAO. New fish drying technology boosts livelihoods in Ivorian towns.
- FAO. Fish smoking in West Africa (technical paper).
- Wikipedia. Stockfish.
- FAO. Artisanal fish smoking: social and gender aspects.
- Seafood from Norway. Stockfish.
- Matvaretabellen (Norwegian Food Composition Table). Stockfish, dried fish.